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Posted: 12:00 a.m. Tuesday, Sept. 4, 2012

Local brew pubs pair best of food and beer

We look at a growing food and beverage trend

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Local brew pubs pair best of food and beer photo
Lavosh, a crispy flatbread made with gourmet ingredients, is a top seller at the Quarter Barrel Brewery and Pub in Oxford. Contributed photo

By Sara Mastbaum

Contributing Writer

According to the Brewers Association, 1,063 brew pubs were operating in the U.S. as of 2011. The trend has continued in 2012 with new brewpubs opening all the time – including several in our region.

We talked with some of the area’s best brew pubs to bring you the scoop on this growing trend.

What is a brew pub?

A brewpub is a restaurant that brews onsite most or all of the beer that is served. Think pub, restaurant, and microbrewery all rolled into one.

Rather than focusing on just food or just beverage, brew pubs strive to give their guests the best of both. Beer production is usually limited to small amounts. The Quarter Barrel Brewery and Pub in Oxford is true to its name – they brew only a quarter barrel of each beer at a time. This keeps the focus on quality rather than quantity.

“We do 32-35 brews per year,” said manager Janet Holmes. “And we have eight microbrews on tap at any given time.”

Moerlein Lager House in Cincinnati boasts an extensive selection of Moerlein beers in bottles and on draft. A 19th century brewery reintroduced to Cincinnati in 1981, Moerlein has a long and laudable craft brewing tradition.

The brew pub is committed to the “same guidelines of true quality and great taste set by the brewery’s founder,” according to its website. In addition to brewing beer, Moerlein places equal emphasis on the food and promises “upscale casual dining in a warm and inviting environment.”

Forget the warmed-over wings and gummy pizza that have become bar standards. Brian Young, board president of Dayton’s forthcoming Fifth Street Brewpub, said the focus is on quality pairings.

“We are not interested in the everyday, run-of-the-mill stuff,” he said. “We want to compliment good beer with good food.”

Brew pub vs. brewery

Although breweries often have tasting rooms and tours, brew pubs allow friends to sit together, relax, and enjoy a meal.

Young explained, “We always wanted a place in our neighborhood to hang out and socialize. We don’t have that right now.” Plans for the pub also include plenty of TVs for those looking to take in a game with their meal.

Quarter Barrel keeps things unique by offering a wide selection of wine and martinis, Holmes said. The pub also sells used books along with brew pub eats.

Brewpubs pair food and beer

Remember those rules for pairing wine with your favorite dinner? Heavy with heavy? Steak with cabernet?

“Beer is not wine,” Eric Zamonski, brewmaster at Fifth Street Brewpub warned. “In terms of their relationship to food, I see beer and wine as having opposite roles.”

Beer has more carbohydrates than wine, Zamonski explained. Therefore, a heavy beer is going to fill you up whereas a heavy wine is not. Don’t pair a hefty oatmeal stout with a porterhouse and potatoes or you’re liable to wind up full and uncomfortable.

Most brew pubs offer both heavy and light fare to complement their array of brews. The top seller on Quarter Barrel menu is “definitely the lavosh,” says Holmes. Lavosh is a light, “Armenian-style flatbread” topped with gourmet ingredients like applewood smoked bacon and balsamic glaze.

Zamonski recommended: “If you’re having a full meal and you want to wash it down with a beer, have a nice simple lager so you’ll still be able to get out of your seat when you’re through.”

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