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Coffee recipes
By Ann Heller
Dayton Daily News
Coffee in a rub for meat may be at its best in this recipe from The New Complete Coffee Book by Sara Perry (Chronicle, $16.95).
It offers the earthy tones of the espresso bean, the sweet taste of brown sugar and ground cardamom, the peppery sharpness of ginger, chile and abundant black pepper and the crunch of kosher salt.
It is excellent on pork, from chops to tenderloin, and works with lamb. To balance the flavors, serve with a mango and red bell pepper salsa.
I found the technique of pan-roasting ideal, searing both sides of the chops just two minutes before moving the skillet to the oven. Cooking them entirely on top of the stove risks scorching the rub.
Be sure to coat the chops in the rub at least four hours before cooking.
PAN-ROASTED PORK LOIN CHOPS WITH COFFEE RUB
Makes 4 servings
Coffee Rub:
1/4 cup finely ground espresso beans
2 tablespoons kosher salt
2 tablespoons freshly ground black pepper
1/4 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
3 teaspoons ground cardamom
6 to 8 garlic cloves, minced
2 to 3 teaspoons grated fresh ginger
4 thick pork loin chops, about 8 ounces each
olive or canola oil
Salsa:
1 large mango
1 small red bell pepper, cored, seeded and diced
1 small jalapeno chile, cored, seeded and minced
1/4 cup minced red onion
2 tablespoons minced fresh cilantro
1 to 2 tablespoons fresh lime juice
Dash of Tabasco sauce
To make the rub: Combine the coffee, salt, pepper, brown sugar and cardamom. Add the minced garlic and grated ginger, and use a fork to blend well. Smear each chop on all sides with the rub, using your fingers. Place on a large plate, cover and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or overnight.
To make the salsa: Cut thick slices off the mango and score the inside flesh. Use your thumbs to press up from the skin side, so that the squares of mango pop up. Trim them off with a sharp knife.
Combine the mango cubes, red bell pepper, jalapeno, red onion, minced cilantro, lime juice and Tabasco. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use.
When ready to cook remove chops from the refrigerator and let rest for half an hour.
Preheat oven to 400 degrees.
Blot chops dry with a paper towel. Heat a large cast-iron or other heavy ovenproof skillet. Add a tablespoon of the oil; when it begins to smoke add the chops and cook 2 minutes on each side, then transfer the skillet to the oven and cook for another 6 to 8 minutes, depending on the thickness of the chops. They should cook to 155 degrees. Remove chops from the skillet and let rest for 5 minutes; the temperature should rise to 160.
Serve with the mango salsa.
• This is a quick, but complex, barbecue sauce that blends ancho chile powder with cumin, coriander and smoked paprika and balances the bite of vinegar with brown sugar. The coffee provides body.
It is excellent on pork and chicken, but try it, too, in baked beans.
COFFEE BBQ SAUCE
Makes 1 3/4 cups
1 tablespoon unsalted butter
1 tablespoon vegetable oil
1 small sweet onion, finely chopped
2 large garlic cloves, peeled and chopped coarsely
2 tablespoons pure ancho chile powder *
1 tablespoon ground cumin
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1 teaspoon smoked sweet paprika **
1/2 cup ketchup
1/2 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar
1 cup dark-roast brewed coffee
1/2 cup low-sodium chicken broth
1/2 cup cider vinegar
2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce
1/2 teaspoon salt
Freshly ground black pepper
In a medium saucepan melt the butter in oil over medium heat. When the foam subsides, add the onion and cook over low heat for 5 or 6 minutes, stirring frequently. Add the garlic and cook another 2 minutes. Add the ketchup and brown sugar and cook, stirring, just until the sugar is dissolved, about 2 minutes. Stir in the coffee, broth, vinegar and Worcestershire and season with salt and pepper. Simmer over medium low heat until the onions are very soft and the liquid is reduced by half, about 25 minutes.
Transfer the sauce to a blender and process until smooth. The sauce will keep, tightly covered, in the refrigerator for up to 1 month.
* Pure ancho chile powder is available at Far East Center, 116 Woodman Drive, Riverside, and International Foods, 4770 Airway Road, Riverside.
** Smoked paprika is available at Dorothy Lane Market stores. If unavailable, use regular paprika.
Recipe from the new Get Saucy by Grace Parisi (Harvard Common Press, $17.95 paperback). The book offers a collection of 500 sauce recipes designed for the home cook.
Bruce Aidells, known for his sausage and his books on meat and sausage, added the Complete Book of Pork (Harper Collins, $29.95) last year.
And he added a recipe for a coffee-based marinade he uses on ribs— spareribs, beef ribs and short ribs. Bathe the ribs in the marinade for at least 16 hours, reserving a cup of the marinade to use as a finishing or dipping sauce.
COFFEE MOLASSES MARINADE
Makes enough for 5 to 6 pounds ribs
1 cup strong coffee
1 cup coarsely chopped red onion
1/2 cup mild molasses
1/2 cup red wine vinegar
1/4 cup Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon Worcestershire sauce
3/4 cup soy sauce
1 tablespoon Tabasco or other hot sauce
2 tablespoons chopped shallot or green onions
Combine all the ingredients and use as a marinade for ribs.
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