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Y! MyWebRestaurant Review
Wellington Grille
Fine food, service, aura of romance
Thursday, January 10, 2008
BEAVERCREEK — Chef Dennis McCarthy's three-decade culinary career took him from his native Dayton to San Francisco and then back to Dayton, where he served in recent years as chef at Olivia's and at Neil's Heritage House.
But now his homecoming is even more complete. As the chef of the Wellington Grille, McCarthy — Beavercreek High School class of 1968 — toils in a kitchen that is within a stone's throw or two of his childhood home.
Extras
Seafood Risotto with Shrimp, Scallops, Mussels, and Salmon and a chocolate Mousse Cake in the background at the Wellington Grille.Wellington Grille
- WHERE: 2450 Dayton-Xenia Road (just east of Factory Road), Beavercreek [Map]
- HOURS: Lunch from 11 a.m. to 2 p.m. Sunday through Friday; Dinner from 4 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 4 p.m. to 11 p.m. Friday, and 4:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. Saturday.
- COST: Lunch $7-$12, dinner entrees $16-$24.
- DISHES TO TRY: Seafood Risotto ($24); Roasted Duck with Lingonberry Sauce ($24); Crab Cakes ($12 at lunch); Chocolate Mousse Cake ($6).
- MORE INFO: (937) 426-4600
- MORE: Reader ratings, complete profile
More information
McCarthy was hired by Wellington Grille owners Mary Miller and Ray Jean in July, and he recently rolled out a fall and winter menu that reflects his direction, while preserving some dishes that have become mainstays at the 8-year-old restaurant.
The Wellington Grille does many things right — and you've apparently noticed: The restaurant came in first in the Best of Dayton People's Choice Awards for "Best Place for a Romantic Dinner." The food, lighting and high-backed booths do indeed create atmosphere for amour for those so inclined. And there have been some so inclined.
"You would not believe how many men come in here and ask us to put a diamond ring on the dessert plate," co-owner Miller said.
Among the dishes that have persevered through the years and chef changes is the Roasted Duck with Swedish Lingonberry Sauce ($24), an attractive and colorful presentation with a crispy-skinned and flavorful duck breast, leg and thigh paired with wild rice and asparagus spears roasted to crisp-tender perfection.
McCarthy shows a deft touch preparing seafood, as both Seafood Risotto With Shrimp, Scallops, Mussels and Salmon ($24) and a Grilled Salmon Filet With Sweet Potato Cake and Sauteed Forest and Cremini Mushrooms ($20) from the seasonal menu were cooked to just-done tenderness. The creamy arborio rice in the risotto was decadently rich, which made the layer of melted Parmesan on top perhaps a touch excessive.
Filet Tips "Au Poivre" with Mushrooms ($19) contained some slices of beef tenderloin that were tender and flavorful, but others that were tough and sinewy.
At lunch, a crispy, meaty crab cake ($12) is served with a refreshing salad of sliced apple, fennel, orange and celery on a bed of romaine.
And a dessert of Chocolate Mousse Cake ($5.95) strikes a delicate balance between rich flavor and light texture. You may find yourself promising to share, then reneging on that promise.
With its Beavercreek location, the restaurant faces stiff competition from chain eateries at the Mall at Fairfield Commons and now The Greene, and Miller said she knows she must work even harder to keep her customers happy and coming back in 2007. But with high-quality food, atmosphere and service, she's starting from a good base.
