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Y! MyWebRestaurant Review
Rue Dumaine
Hottest restaurant seat in town is well worth the wait
Friday, January 04, 2008
WASHINGTON TWP., Montgomery County — Let's start with what Rue Dumaine isn't.
It is not some fancy French restaurant. Yes, it has a French name, and chef-owner Anne Kearney most certainly uses French techniques in her cooking. But Rue Dumaine has much more in common with a neighborhood bistro in Provence (or her former restaurant in New Orleans) than a fancy starred restaurant in Paris. The prices reflect that lack of pretense: Most entrees are less than $20, and most wines by the glass are $6 or $7.
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Rue Dumaine's dinning room at 1061 Miamisburg-Centerville Road in Centerville.
Rue Dumaine's bar has an extensive wine list with over a 100 wines available.
Trout Amandine is golden pan-seared trout with toasted almond brown butter, served with haricot vert for $19 with a Lioco Chardonnay Sonoma County 2006 $8 a glass or $40 a bottle.
Roasted garlic preserved lemon stuffed chicken breast with barigoule artichokes and roasted fingerling potatoes for $19.Rue Dumaine
- WHERE: 1061 Miamisburg-Centerville Road (Ohio 725), next to Arhaus Furniture [Map]
- HOURS: Open 5 to 9 p.m. Tuesday through Thursday, 5 to 10 p.m. Fridays and Saturdays, and closed Sundays and Mondays. The restaurant is open for lunch on Fridays only, starting today, from 11:30 a.m. to 1:30 p.m.
- COST: Appetizers $7.50-$10, entrees $16.50-$21
- DISHES TO TRY: Pissaladieire puff pastry tartlet ($7.50), Trout Amadine ($19), Roasted Garlic-Preserved Lemon-stuffed Chicken Breast ($19), Duck Confit ($16.50), Creme Brulee ($4.50)
- TIP: Patrons seated at the bar can order from the full dinner menu
- MORE INFO: (937) 610-1061
- MORE: Reader ratings, complete profile
More information
Now, on to what Rue Dumaine is, at least for the moment: The hottest restaurant seat in town. And for good reason.
By now, you likely know the story of Kearney, the West Carrollton native who earned significant national recognition while operating Peristyle restaurant in the French Quarter before returning to the Miami Valley. She looked long and hard for the right place to open her own restaurant here, and the renovation of the former Chow's Asian Bistro has created an inviting space. The tables are relatively close together, evoking a bistro, rather than a romantic, atmosphere. And the focus is, appropriately, on the food.
Among the starters, the Pissaladiere ($7.50) — puff pastry topped with caramelized onions, olives, goat cheese and roasted garlic puree, garnished with white anchovies — strikes a fine balance of sweet and salty flavors. The Crispy Herb de Provence Frog Legs ($8.75) are meaty and flavorful, while the salads are fresh and not overdressed.
The entrees on the daily menu shine. Kearney's Roasted Garlic and Preserved Lemon-Stuffed Chicken Breast ($19) is close to a signature dish, brought to Dayton via New Orleans. The garlic and lemon add balanced, complex flavors that propel locally produced chicken to new heights. The dish is served with artichoke hearts that have been slow-poached in wine, olive oil, garlic and herbs — you'll search your plate for more.
Trout Amandine ($19) also comes to Rue Dumaine via Peristyle — and it travels well: the toasted-almond brown butter complements the trout's flavor without overwhelming it.
The Steak Frites ($19.50) infuses slices of hangar steak with a rub that includes smoked Spanish paprika, giving the meat a hint of intriguing smokiness. Duck Confit ($16.50) arrives with perfectly crisped skin and tender, flavorful meat, over lentils and wilted spinach.
A daily special of Grilled Muscovy Duck Breast ($22) was a disappointment; the slices of duck tough and lacking flavor. The green peppercorns and wild rice-mushroom croquette added interest and occasional, unexpected bursts of heat.
For dessert, the Creme Brulee ($4.50) is decadently rich — even for creme brulee — with an even, crackly crust.
The wine list is interesting and varied, with fully 20 wines available by the glass or bottle, another 50 by the bottle only. The list includes some surprising, older vintages (1994 Pahlmeyer Merlot, 1997 Heitz Bella Oaks Cabernet Sauvignon, 2001 Domaine Saint-Damien Gigondas) — unusual for a new restaurant.
The immediate popularity of Rue Dumaine, combined with the time-intensive preparation of some dishes, can overwhelm the kitchen at times. So don't book a table here if you're on a tight schedule. Instead, treat a dinner here as a leisurely event — much as the French do.
The food is worth the wait.
This review was originally published on Jan. 4, 2008.
