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Restaurant Review

Mimi's Cafe

Comfort food at comfortable prices

Staff Writer

Thursday, January 10, 2008

BEAVERCREEK — Mimi's Cafe certainly got off to a neighborly start.

In mid-January — when it appeared to passersby as if the restaurant had opened because there was plenty of server training and other activity going on — Mimi's greeted hopeful customers at the door with the disappointing news that no, we're not open, but here's a container of four free muffins to soften the blow. And please come back and see us.

Extras

Mimi's Cafe
  • WHERE: 4402 Walnut St. in The Greene, Beavercreek [Map]
  • HOURS: 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily.
  • COST: Breakfast $5.29 to $7.99, sandwiches $7.29-$8.99, entrees $11.29-$14.99
  • DISHES TO TRY: Link Sausage and Eggs ($6.99), Pasta Jambalaya ($12.99), Chicken Pot Pie ($11.29), Mimi's Pot Roast ($11.29)
  • MORE INFO: (937) 426-9153
  • MORE: Reader ratings, complete profile

Nice touch. I have a hunch those folks did come back — and brought their friends. Since its Jan. 25 opening at The Greene, this 200-seat restaurant has been doing a robust business, serving breakfast, lunch and dinner seven days a week. The restaurant, overlooking Indian Ripple Road, is part of a chain — 108 restaurants in 19 states — but it has a powerful Ohio connection: it's owned by Columbus-based Bob Evans Farms, Inc.

With that lineage, it should come as no surprise that Mimi's excels at breakfast. The sausage links are large and spiced right, the eggs well-executed, the pancakes nicely browned and stacked.

For lunch, the West Coast Reuben ($8.79) replaces the corned beef with turkey and ham, but keeps the Swiss cheese and thousand island dressing.

At dinner, a few hints of the New Orleans decorating theme shine through, in the form of dishes such as Pasta Jambalaya ($12.99), which combines chicken breast, shrimp, spicy smoked sausage and pork loin, served over penne. My jambalaya batted three-for-four: The chicken, shrimp and sausage were moist and tender, cooked just to done; the few pieces of pork loin were tough, dry and tasteless.

Beyond the handful of Cajun-inspired items, the menu's emphasis is on comfort foods, such as Chicken Pot Pie ($11.29) and Mimi's Pot Roast ($11.29) — and both dishes shine. The pot pie combines chicken breast, celery, peas and more in a creamy sauce baked in a pie crust that would please most fussy bakers. The pot roast is slow-cooked, tender chuck roast smothered in a rich, salty gravy, with a large dollop of mashed potatoes to boost the comfort factor. It will take the chill off.

The restaurant chain is poised to roll out five new seafood dishes, ranging from $9.99 to $14.99, including Pan-Seared Scallops with Fettuccine and Center Cut Swordfish or Mahi-Mahi.

Desserts are served in gargantuan portions and include a fragrant Apple Cinnamon Crisp, towering Bananas Foster Mud Pie and a whiskey-scented Mimi's Bread Pudding, all $4.99.

Just don't count on any free muffins.

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