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Restaurant Review

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar

Upscale steakhouse offers big selection, but be prepared to pay

Staff Writer

Wednesday, January 09, 2008

BEAVERCREEK — Two impressions emerge quickly upon dining at Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar: First, the restaurant does a fabulous job with red meats and with wines.

Second — you'll pay for it.

Extras

Fleming's Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
  • WHERE: 4432 Walnut St. at The Greene, Beavercreek [Map]
  • HOURS: Open for dinner only, seven days: Monday through Thursday 5 to 10 p.m., Friday and Saturday 5 to 11 p.m., Sunday 4 to 9 p.m.
  • COST: Entrees, sides and salads are served a la carte: entrees from $21.50 to $37.95; appetizers from $7.95 to $14.95; salads from $6.95 to $11.50; side dishes from $5.50 to $8.50
  • DISHES TO TRY: Wicked cajun barbecue shrimp ($12.50), prime bone-in New York strip ($37.95), filet mignon ($31.95), Australian lamb chops ($30.95), Chipotle cheddar macaroni & cheese ($7.50), chocolate lava cake ($9.95).
  • MORE INFO: (937) 320-9548
  • MORE: Reader ratings, complete profile

The 7,400-square-foot, 222-seat restaurant that opened in December on The Greene's northern doorstep brings a second upscale national steakhouse chain to the Dayton area (Carvers Steaks & Chops is part of a California-based chain). Fleming's is affiliated with the Tampa, Fla.-based restaurant corporation that operates Outback Steakhouse restaurants throughout the country.

But Fleming's is no Outback. That's apparent from the first glance at the menu, which opens to four full pages listing 100 wines by the glass before the first morsel of solid food is mentioned. No wonder the restaurant includes "Wine Bar" in its name.

The list tilts a bit toward domestic releases but is eclectic enough to invite exploration. It is also aggressively priced. But Fleming's gets some important details right, storing whites in a 45-degree room and reds in a 60-degree room for optimum serving temperature, and pouring into large, elegant crystal stemware. Wine lovers can create their own Wine Flights, a trio of two-ounce tastes served on an inventive spiral Wine Vine. Regular Wednesday wine tastings at the bar offer samples of four wines and four appetizers for $15 a person — a good value.

At dinner — Fleming's is not open for lunch — the restaurant shines brightest in its meats. It serves prime beef that has been aged three to four weeks and cut into steaks on site, then seared under a 1,600-degree broiler. The bone-in New York strip ($37.95) and the filet mignon ($31.95) boast beefy, complex flavors that are enhanced — not hidden — by the simple seasoning of salt, pepper and a bit of butter. Ditto for the Australian lamb chops ($30.95), which need no adornment from the champagne mint sauce that is served on the side.

The steakhouse offers five seafood entrees, including tuna mignon ($27.95), which is coated with poppy seeds and black pepper, seared rare and dressed a bit generously with a tomato-sherry vinaigrette.

Like many upscale national steakhouse chains — but unlike the local independent steakhouses — entrees at Fleming's do not include salads or sides in the price. So if you want a baked potato with that slab of beef, it'll cost an additional $5.50, a salad, another $7-$8, asparagus, $8 more. Many of the sides and salads are built to share — or to take home as leftovers.

Among the side dishes, chipotle cheddar macaroni & cheese ($7.50) adds a fiery kick to a creamy comfort food, while creamed corn ($6.95) is blended with parmesan and gruyere cheeses. Both are rich, robust and filling. Creamed spinach ($6.95) has way more cream than spinach, while the sauteed spinach ($6.95) arrives with a heavy salt influence. Grilled asparagus ($7.95) features large spears cooked lightly to a toothsome firmness, then dressed in olive oil, butter, salt and pepper.

For dessert, look to the chocolate lava cake ($9.95), served with vanilla ice cream, and order it before you finish your entree — it takes about 20 minutes to prepare.

The atmosphere at Fleming's is inviting, with an open dining room separating the exhibition-style kitchen and the bar. A private dining room holds 80 or can be split for smaller groups.

Fleming's abandons its a la carte concept with one special: On Sundays only, it offers a prime rib dinner for $29.95, salad, side and dessert included.

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