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MIAMISBURG — It was by accident — or perhaps serendipity — that Kohinoor Palace Fine Indian Cuisine ended up at 39 S. Springboro Pike, across from the Dayton Mall.

Last December, Pawan Kumar was on his way to look at another property on Kings-ridge Drive when he noticed a large "For Rent" sign on the former La Pinata Mexican restaurant on the southwest corner of Ohio 725 and Ohio 741. On his way back, he stopped to peer into the windows, called the phone number of the leasing agent, and within days had signed a lease.

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The dining area at Kohinoor Palace Fine Indian Cuisine.Click to view more photos

Kohinoor Palace Fine Indian Cuisine

• WHERE: 39 S. Springboro Pike (Ohio 741) across from the Dayton Mall in Miamisburg, in the same building that houses the Taste of Mediterranean restaurant [Map]
• HOURS: Open seven days: Lunch 11.30 a.m. to 2.30 p.m. weekdays, noon to 3 p.m. Saturday and Sunday; dinner from 5 p.m. to 10 p.m. Sunday through Thursday, 5 p.m. to 10:30 p.m Friday and Saturday
• COST: Lunch buffet $7.99 weekdays; brunch buffet $10.99 weekends; dinner entrees $7.99 to $15.99
• DISHES TO TRY: Assorted Vegetarian Appetizer ($6.99), Achari Lamb ($14.99), Fish Tikka Masala ($14.99), Ras Malai ($2.50)
• MORE INFO: (937) 723-9014 or www.kohinoorpalace.com
• MORE: Reader ratings, complete profile

"It was destiny," Kumar said.

It may also be destiny that Kohinoor Palace takes its place in the upper echelon of Indian restaurants in the Miami Valley. In the three months it has been open, the handsomely appointed restaurant that focuses primarily on the cuisine of northern India has generated quite favorable word-of-mouth. An initial misstep nothwithstanding, it's easy to see why.

On the first of two dinner visits, an appetizer called the Kohinoor Special ($8.99) — chicken, shrimp and fish broiled in a clay oven — arrived astonishingly dry and overcooked. A much better appetizer choice is the Assorted Vegetarian Appetizer ($6.99), especially the plump, flavorful samosas, fried pastries stuffed with potato and onion.

The Achari Lamb ($14.99) was a star among the entrees, its spicy flavors broad and intense, its chunks of lamb tender. The rice-based dish Biryani, ordered with lamb ($13.99), benefitted from an extra kick of flavor provided by the tiny strands of fried onions and a sprinkling of cilantro scattered atop.

Fish Tikka Masala ($14.99) was creamy and complex, with the fish properly cooked and well-flavored by the yogurt, garlic, tomatoes and coriander in the rich sauce.

For dessert — should you have room for it — check out the rich and decadent Ras Malai ($2.50), a dumpling of ricotta cheese resting in sweetened milk and topped with chopped pistachios. It will feed two.

While we focused on the northern Indian specialties, the menu includes a wide variety of vegetarian options and also offers vindaloo from the south of India along with several specialties described as Indian Chinese. Spice levels come in levels one through five, with five described as "Indian hot." During my visits, there was some inconsistency in dishes ordered at the same spice level.

The wine list is scant, but the cocktails make up for it: Both the Lychee Martini, with two fresh lychees on a skewer resting atop the glass, and the fresh and fruity Mango Martini were potent and delicious bargains at $6.

Kumar and chef/co-owner Swaran Singh worked together at Patang, in Westchester, N.Y., before coming to Dayton, and it appears they're making a name for themselves quickly here. The quality of the entrees and the breadth of the menu at the region's newest Indian restaurant offer plenty of opportunities for exploration.