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May 2008
Fraud behind the bar: Restaurant employees pull the ol’ switcharoo?
Oh. My. Heavens.
Check out my colleague Alexis Larsen’s Lounge Lizard entry entitled “Restaurant busted for serving cheap booze at luxury price”. It links to a Columbus Dispatch story about an investigation by state liquor control officials into the actions of bar workers at Smith & Wollensky steakhouse at Easton in Columbus.
The Dispatch story quotes a source as saying, “Some bar employees were filling premium-brand liquor bottles with cheaper alcohol then selling it at top-shelf prices.”
Could this happen with wines? Obviously, not with wines by the bottle, which are opened tableside in the diner’s presence, but could it possibly happen with wines by the glass that are poured at the bar and brought to the table?
Please assure me. Please tell me that no one would risk pulling such a stunt — or more specifically, such an act of fraud.
Most importantly, please assure me that people would notice.
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Lest we forget that wine contains alcohol …
I didn’t witness any extreme behavior at this year’s Fleurs de Fete, but lest we forget that wine contains alcohol, and that some folks lack the “off” switch when surrounded by a limitless supply, take a look at this ddn.com story from the Kettering police blotter.
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THE wine epicenter of the world
Ay carumba, we are indeed blessed here in southwest Ohio to be the wine epicenter of the world and to have SO SO many wine dinners and winemaker events coming up. Here’s a small sampling, in chronological order — I DARE you to read this list without salivating.
— Jay’s Restaurant, 225 E. Sixth St., will host a Copper River Salmon Luncheon at 12:30 p.m. Saturday, May 31. The menu includes Tuna Nicoise Salad; Duo of Dungeness Crab Cakes with Avocado and Mango; Cedar-Planked Salmon with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Summer Vegetables; and Lemon and Plum Bread Pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream. The cost is $67.50, which includes tax and tip. Reservations are required. For reservations or more information, call (937) 222-2892.
— Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar, 4432 Walnut St. at The Greene in Beavercreek, will host a wine dinner with Michael Honig, owner of Honig Vineyard and Winery, at 6:30 p.m. on Monday, June 2. The menu will include Fried Oyster atop Toast Point and Smoked Bacon-Wrapped Asparagus Tempura; Gruyere Cheese Basket with Mixed Greens, Seasonal Vegetables and Tuna Tartare; Beef Tenderloin topped with Herb Butter and Cabernet Demi-Glace; Herb-Rubbed Ribeye with Red Wine Marmalade and Grilled Spring Vegetables; and Caramel Chocolate Creme Brulee with Fresh Berries. The cost is $65, not including tax and tip, and reservations are required. For more information or to make reservations, call (937) 320-9548.
— L’Auberge, 4120 Far Hills Ave., will host a wine dinner featuring the Napa Valley wines of Whitehall Lane at 7 p.m. Tuesday, June 3. Michelle Watkins, Whitehall Lane¹s national sales director, will be the guest. The menu includes Honey Green Apple Bisque and Smoked Potato Ceviche; Seared Scallops with Tomato Gastrique, Vanilla Paint, Lemon Verbena and Heirloom Tomato Salad; Alaskan Wild Salmon with Pistachio, Hazelnut and Mushroom Ragout; Roasted Venison Loin with Braised Rhubarb and Foie Gras Puree; and Trio of Pear Lollipops. The cost is $85, not including tax and tip. For reservations or more information, call (937) 299-5536.
— The National City Ohio WineFest will be held at the 2nd Street Market, 600 East Second Street in Downtown Dayton, on Friday, June 6th, 5:00pm to 10:00pm and Saturday, June 7th, 11:00am - 8:00pm. The event will feature 13 Ohio wineries. Market vendors will be open both days.
— Shawn from the Cork-n-Vine in Troy points out that from 5:30 to 9:30 p.m. on Wednesday, June 4th, his shop will kick off Ohio Wine Month by hosting Tony Debevec, owner of Debonne Vineyards in Madison, Ohio. For $14.00, you’ll get a flight of wines that include Pinot Gris, Chardonnay, Chambourcin, Cabernet Franc, River Rouge and Vidal Blanc Ice Wine.
— And Cuvee Wine Cellar in Bellbrook will host a drop-in Adelsheim Vineyard Tasting with Michael Adelsheim (Director of National Sales) on Monday, June 9th from 5-7 PM, featuring the Oregon winery’s Chardonnay (Stainless steel), Auxerrois, TF (Tocai Friulino), Pinot Noir, Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Deglace (Pinot Noir Dessert Wine).
Now keep in mind — this is just a small sampling of the total wine-tastings list, which comes to Uncorked via the tireless efforts of the Dayton-based wine listserv that compiles it, and which is available to you (for free!) for a click of the mouse on “continue reading.” Is life great or what?
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, May 30, 2008 4-8 pm 2005 Sbragia Family Chardonnay 2005 Etude Pinot Noir 2003 E. Guigal Chateaunuf du Pape 2003 Judd Hill Cabernet 2001 Beringer Napa Valley Cabernet Port
Saturday, May 31, 2008 1-6 pm 2006 Beringer Alluvium Blanc 2005 Sbragia Family Chardonnay 2005 Etude Pinot Noir 2005 Beringer Knights Valley Cabernet 2001 Beringer Napa Valley Cabernet Port
RSVP 222-2892 for all Dinners and Luncheons
Saturday, May 31, 2008 Copper River Salmon Luncheon $67.50 Tuna Nicoise Salad, Duo of Dungeness Crab Cakes with Avocado and Mango, Cedar Planked Salmon with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Summer Vegetables, Lemon and Plum Bread Pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream
Arrow Far Hills - Kettering Saturday, May 31, 2008 11-4 pm 2007 Casa Lapostolle Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Vinum VIO-gnier 2006 Pezat Bordeaux Rose 2007 Pascual Toso Malbec 2004 Rock Block Syrah “Del Rio” 2005 Dancing Bull Cali Zinfandel 2003 Quattro Vicariati “4V” Rosso
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood Friday, May 30, 2008 5-8 pm Pecota ’07 Sauvignon Blanc Merryvale ’05 Carneros Chardonnay Lealtanza ’04 Crianza Chateau Larmande ’05 St. Emilion Kitfox ’05 Syrah Amizetta ’02 Complexity Brown Bag
Saturday, May 31, 2008 1-6 pm Monchhof ’03 Estate Riesling Blackbart ’05 Marsanne Lolita ’05 Pinot Noir Red Mud ’04 Petit Verdot Sarria ’01 Reserva Especial Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande ’05 St. Estephe Bonus Bottle
DLM Washington Square Thursday, May 29, 2008 5-8 pm 2004 Baumard Savennieres 2006 Diel Dorsheim Riesling 2005 Natura Carmenere 2005 K Vintner’s Cougar Hill Syrah 2005 Chateau Cantenac Saint Emilion Grand Cru Encore Wine
Saturday, May 31, 2008 12-5 pm Fifi’s Freaking Over Spain 2007 Veleta Tempranillo Rose 2006 Vina Godeval 2006 Nora Albarino 2005 Venta la Ossa 2006 Atteca Old Vine Garnach2004 Torre Muga Rioja Encore Wine
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, May 30, 2008 Stephen Vincent Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Kinkead Ridge Cabernet Franc 2005 Midnight Cellars Cabernet Franc 2004 Lang & Reed Cabernet Franc 2004 Reverie Cabernet Franc 2001 Dare Cabernet Franc 2003
Saturday, May 31, 2008 12-5 pm J Lohr Arroyo Vista Chardonnay 2006 Chateau Reysson Haut Medoc 2005 Chateau Tronquoy-Lalande St. Estephe 2005 Culler La Palette 2005 Chateau Pichon Langueville Comtesse Pauillac 2004
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday - Thursday 11:30 - 7 pm, Friday 11:30 - 8 pm Saturday 11:30 - 7 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Tasting from Friday, May 30 -Thursday, June 5, 2008 Pamacavacosmotini The Work Sauvignon Blanc Destino Chardonnay Rosa de Blanca Sparkling Davis Family Zinfandel Maloy O’Neil Cabernet Blend
Beer: Two Brothers Prairie Path Golden Ale Saturday Food: TBA
Saturday, 10 minute chair massages 12:30-3:30.
Monday, June 9, 2006 (drop-in) 5-7 pm Adelsheim Vineyards Tasting with Michael Adelsheim. ”CH” Chardonnay (Stainless steel), Auxerrois, TF (Tocai Friulino), Pinot Noir, Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Deglace (Pinot Noir Dessert Wine)
Arrow Centerville 937-433-6778 615 Lyons Rd Centerville Friday, May 30, 2008 5-7 pm Beer Tasting Wittekerke Belgian White Plank Bavarian Hefeweizen Avery Karma Avery IPA Avery The Reverend
Saturday, May 31, 2008 11 am-5 pm Wine Tasting 2005 Sanford Chardonnay 2006 Cakebread Chardonnay 2005 Coppola Claret 2004 Toasted Head Alexander Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2004 Bravante Howell Mountain Merlot
Rue Dumaine www.ruedumainerestaurant.com Tuesday, June 3, 2008 5-7 pm DOMAINE GUY ALLION Sauvignon de Touraine Loire Valley, 2007 DRYLANDS Sauvignon Blanc Marlborough, 2007 WALTER HANSEL Sauvignon Blanc Russian River , 2005
The Wine Gallery and Cafe, Corner of 3rd and Wayne Wednesday, June 4, 2008 5:30-8:30 pm Vertical tasting with Cadence Red Mountain. 2005 Three Rivers Chardonnay
Thursday May 29th 5:30 - 8:30pm German Beer Tasting
Market Wine Imports, Second Street Public Market Saturday, May 31, 2008 8AM to 1PM. Value wine tasting!
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 937-320-9548 Wine Wednesdays 5pm to 8pm in the bar. Wednesday, June 4, 2008
June 2, 2008 6:30 Wine Dinner with Michael Honig $65 Fried Oyster atop Toast Point with Lemon Lime Creme Fraishe, Smoked Bacon Wrapped Asparagus Tempura Honig, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2006
Gruyere Cheese Basket with Mixed Greens, Seasonal Vegetables and Tuna Tartare Honig, Rutherford Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley, 2005
Beef Tenderloin with Herb Butter & Cabernet Demi-Glace and Rosemary New Potatoes Honig, Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley, 2005
Herb Rubbed Ribeyewith Red Wine Marmalade with Grilled Spring Vegetables Honig, Bartolucci Cabernet, Napa Valley, 2004
Caramel & Chocolate Crème Brulee With Fresh Berries Delaforce, Port, Colheita Portugal, 1986
A Taste of Wine 90 S. Main St Miamisburg, OH 937.247-1120 This week’s wines: Michael David’s SYMPHONY BeauVigngac’s SYRAH ROSE Stephen Vincent’s MERLOT Stephen Vincent’s CRIMSON Maloy O’Neill Vineyards FREMERE
May 31 - Play, Wine, Dine 4 pm June 12 - Portugal Wine Tasting June 26 - Great Grilling Wines
Trader Joe’s in Kettering. Tastings Thursday 6:00-8:00 and Sunday 4:00-7:00. Novella Synergy Blanc (2007) AVA Paso Robles, California. Ulrich Langguth Riesling (2006) QbA Hessische Bergstrasse, Germany. La Loggia (2006) DOC Barbera d’Alba, Italy. Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz (2007) GI South Eastern Australia.
Savona Monthly Wine Tasting Wednesday, June 11th 5pm to 8pm Trinchero Cabernet Sauvignon, Trinchero Riesling, Pedres Canonnau, Pedres Vermentino, De Faveri Prosecco Rose, and Ca’ Ronseca Marna
Cork-n-Vine Wine Cellar in Troy, Ohio May 30, 2008 at 5 pm - June 6, 2008 White flight: La Spinetta “Vigneto Biancospino” Moscato D’Asti Clos du Bois Chardonnay, Sonoma Joseph Carr Chardonnay, Nappa Valley St. Hallet “Poachers Blend” Semillion and Sauvignon Blanc, Austrailia
Red Flight: Blue Pirate, Pinot Noir, Dundee Oregon Chateau de Chamirey, Pinot Noir, Mercurey Burgundy from France St. Hallet Shiraz, Barossa Valley, Australia Nappa Cel
Wednesday, June 4th to kick off Ohio Wine Month we will be hosting Tony Debevec owner of Debonne Vineyards, from Madison, Ohio. Debonne Flight to include: Pinot Gris Chardonnay Chambourcin Cabernet Franc River Rouge Vidal Blanc Ice Wine
Friday, June 16th 6:00-9:00 beer tasting at Dagwoods Sierra Nevada beers
Bella Vino Wine Merchant & Bar, Springboro, OH 45066 Thursday, May 29, 2008 5:30-7:30pm, Saturday 2pm - 4pm German Wines from Lingenfelder Vineyard Fox label Dornfelder Owl label Pinot Grigio Hare label Gewurztraminer Bird label Rhine Riesling Fish label Mosel Riesling Bee label Morio Muskat
La Petit France Friday, May 30 and Saturday May 31 A Taste of Provence and the Wines of Lurton at La Petite France Dinner $40 Aperitif - Rose de Provence Appetizer - Salade Nicoise Entree - Cuisses de grenouille a la Provencale & haricots verts (frog legs with green beans- Provence style) Dessert - Profiteroles
Friday, June, 20, 2008 6:30 pm $60 RSVP required 513-733-8383 Aperitif - Lurton, Pinot Gris 1st. Course - Seared sea scallops with an arugula lemon salad 2nd. Course - Baked brie with carmelized onions 3rd. Course - Stewed Moroccan lamb with couscous 4th. Course - Chocolate marquise with cherry sauce
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069.513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, May 30, 2998 5-8 pm - “Reds” at Bat Saturday, May 31, 2008 3-6 pm - More Reds at Bat
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RIP ‘Jug’ wines?
Jug wines may soon go the way of the carrier pigeon if this trend detailed by the East Bay Business Times takes hold.
No more jugs of Almaden and Inglenook? Horrors! Who among us did not cut their wine-tasting teeth on ol’ reliable Inglenook Navalle Chablis?
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Recession? What recession? Pass that wine bottle over here …
Check out this morning’s Decanter.com story entitled “Consumers will carry on drinking wine despite recession” … It involves a survey of British wine drinkers who told pollsters that during the current economic downturn, they will cut back spending on sweets, chocolate, beer and soft drinks — but not wine.
God bless the Queen — and all her subjects.
Do you think American wine drinkers would have the same response as their British counterparts?
Has the economy affected your wine-buying habits?
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Rosés capture summer in a glass
Here’s a piece I’ve written for today’s Dayton Daily News … if you have a favorite rosé, please let us know by posting a comment.
Nothing brightens a day quite like a dozen roses. Except, perhaps, a dozen rosés.
Suddenly, it seems, rosés are on the rise. These beautiful pink-to-strawberry-hued wines capture summer in a bottle, and wine drinkers have taken notice. So have wine shops, which are devoting more precious shelf space to the increasingly popular pinks.
Sales of rosé wines priced $8 and above grew by about 50 percent in 2007, according to data compiled by the Nielsen Co. Compared to the overall market, rosé sales grew nearly eight times faster in terms of dollar sales and 17 times faster by volume than total table wine sales, according to Wines & Vines magazine.
These wines share a color spectrum — and sometimes, grocery store shelf space — with the still-very-popular white zinfandels, but generally, the wines labeled rosé are drier — sometimes bracingly so. Their refreshingly tart, berry-like fruit flavors make rosés a fine complement to everything from seafood to barbecued chicken, potato salad to grilled burgers, spicy Asian fare to garlicky dishes.
And these pink wines require little fuss. They’re at their best when served chilled — and the fresher, the better. Many 2007 rosés are just now showing up on wine shop shelves, although the delivery of some French rosés was delayed in recent weeks by a French dockworkers’ strike. I’d be wary of buying pinks from any country that are 2005 vintage or older unless you know the producers’ rosés hold up well with extended bottle age (only a handful do).
Winemakers employ a variety of different techniques to make their rosés pretty in pink. Some harvest red grapes and separate the skins — where all of the dark-red pigment resides — from the juice after just a few hours, leaving behind juice that is a delicate pink hue. Others who intend to make red wine from their grapes simply “bleed off” the first-run juice after the grapes are crushed, which allows them to produce a rosé-style wine while also concentrating the flavors, tannins and color of their red wines. And some simply mix white wine with a bit of red wine — the preferred method of many makers of rosé Champagnes and other pink sparkling wines.
We gathered a dozen rosés (all still wines, no sparklers) to see if we could find some winners. Our search for the best rosés took us to two grocery stores and one wine shop, but the wines themselves hail from all over the globe: France, Spain, Australia, New Zealand, California, Washington, Chile and Argentina. And they come from a wide range of red grapes, including syrah, grenache, malbec and cabernet sauvignon.
Some of the wines we sampled are made in mega-quantities and enjoy wide distribution. Others — particularly the more expensive pinks in our delightful dozen — may be harder to find. Check your local wine shops or grocers for availability; they may be able to order the rosés you want, or offer a substitution.
Overall, the quality was very high — a pleasant surprise. Some of the under-$10 wines fared quite well against their more expensive brethren. The wines are listed by order of preference, but the differences in quality were actually quite narrow — I’d buy nine or 10 of these wines again. And the 12th-rated wine, which cost a scant $4 on sale, was perfectly drinkable.
It’s hard to find an ugly rose — or a poorly made ros.
For tasting notes and rankings of our delightful dozen rosés, click on “continue reading”
Domaine Lafond Tavel 2007 (France), $18
The Tavel region of France, by law, produces only rosés — and the experience shows. This wine is the most deeply colored of the dozen, the most expensive, and the all-around best. This is the benchmark for rosé, with initial flavors of sweet fruit, followed by refreshing acidity that begs the next sip.
Triennes 2007 Rosé (France), $17
Very pale pink. Great intensity of flavor, and a fine balance between fruit and acidity. This comes across as a serious wine, with a long, appealing, dry finish. Made predominantly from Cinsault grown in Provence, where the grapes seem to capture the sun.
Crios 2007 Rosé of Malbec (Argentina), $12
Great intensity of flavors from this Malbec rosé, which was one of the darkest of the tasting. The juice was bled from the vats of red wine. Although relatively high in alcohol (13.8 percent), this wine has the fruit to balance.
Artazuri 2007 Navarra (Spain), $13
Garnacha (Grenache) is the grape, and Grenache can make great rosés, and these Spanish winemakers made a fine one, with enough berry fruit to carry the bracing acidity.
Monkey Bay 2006 Rosé (New Zealand), $10
A restrained, European-styled wine, fragrant with berries, with fruit leading to a zingy finish. New Zealand is clearly an up-and-coming wine region, and this rosé shows why. Wide availability.
Columbia Crest 2007 Two Vines Vineyard 10 Rosé (Washington State), $8
Mostly syrah, with a dash (5 percent) of viognier, this candy-apple-red-colored wine delivers plenty of fruit, but finishes dry. Great value for the price.
Chateau Mourgues du Gres 2007 Fleur d’Eglantine (France), $13
A pale-in-color, delicate, dry style of rosé, this offering from the Costieres de Nimes in the south of France was the driest of the dozen tasted. Serve with garlickly dishes to bring out the fruit, which emerges with a bit of coaxing.
Allison 2006 Rosé (California), $13
This rosé of syrah comes from the folks at Steltzner Vineyards and is named after Dick Steltzner’s daughter. Very dry, and a bit austere and alcoholic in the finish. Serve it very cold on a hot day, though, and it will please.
Yellow Tail 2007 Rosé (Australia), $9
Plenty of fruit balanced by refreshing acidity. A bit lacking in intensity of flavor, but this is one of Yellow Tail’s better offerings. Grape varietals are not listed on the label.
Vinum Cellars 2006 Rosé It’s Okay (California), $8 (regularly $12)*
Delicious fruit in this cabernet sauvignon-based pink wine that packs a wallop with its 14 percent alcohol. That alcohol shows up in the finish, though, and cuts it short.
Red Bicyclette 2006 French Rosé (France), $8 (regularly $11)
This is the softest (least acidic), easiest-to-quaff wine of the bunch, but it could use a bit more flavor. Still, a great picnic wine at this price, and the best choice for white zinfandel fans who want to check out a “friendly” rosé.
Frontera Rosé Wine 2006 (Chile), $4 (regularly $6)
Sweeter and heavier than most rosés, with a distinctly alcoholic kick and a bit of cherry Kool-Aid flavor in the finish.
*Prices reflect amount paid in Ohio in May 2008. Wines that were listed as on sale (or “posted off”) are indicated with both the price paid and the listed “regular” price.
(photos by Jim Witmer)

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Italian Wine Adventure — Milan and Piemonte
Uncorked reader Niki Foor has delivered the third installment of her Italian wine adventure, allowing us a tiny vicarious taste of a European wine trip. You may recall part I of this adventure entitled Despite gender bias, Italy sparkles, and the second installment entitled Traveling the wine route of Italy, Part II. This time, we join our wine enthusiasts in Milan and Piemonte.
It seemed like a good idea at the time. We’d take the train from Venice to Milan, rent a car, and drive to the farmhouse we’d rented near Asti. Our train was scheduled to arrive at Milano Stazione Centrale around 11:00 am, and the car rental place, located at the station, closed at noon, so we had plenty of time, right? Well, not exactly .
Italian trains run mostly on time, especially in northern Italy, so that wasn’t really an issue. What we’d failed to understand was the scope and complexity of the train station. Refurbished under Mussolini, the Stazione Centrale is itself a work of art. A really, really big work of art, stretching more than a city block, and surrounded by the scaffolding and restoration construction ubiquitous to Italy. We persevered though; arrived at the Hertz office with minutes to spare, and successfully rented two vehicles.
Our next challenge (if one discounts the challenge of actually driving in Italy) was to negotiate the directions provided by our landlord, Mario. With only one wrong turn, corrected via a cell phone conversation, we eventually arrived at the meeting place, a turn-around at the toll road station. Mario was waiting to guide us to the farmhouse. We followed him quickly through the Italian countryside; like most Italians, he drove fast!
The farmhouse was built in 1682 and was even nicer than it appeared in the pictures we viewed on-line prior to booking. Mario gave us a quick tour of the nearest village, Rocchetta Tanaro, and recommended we stop at the local winery while we were visiting. He also showed us the local shops, including what he called the “good bakery” as well as the grocery store. We purchased dinner supplies, which of course included wine.
Back at the farmhouse, we found that Mario had left a bottle of the local rose in the refrigerator for us, the 06 Futurosa Monferrato Chiaretto dei Marchesi Incisa della Rocchetta Tanaro, which tasted of tart cherries and sunshine, and had a bit of strawberry on the nose. We sipped that as we prepared dinner; baked chicken, salad, and a quick red sauce with some of the spinach and ricotta ravioli we’d bought. We opened a Soave that cost 2 Euros at the grocery, and enjoyed that with our dinner. Five of us drained that wine, along with a Bardolino from the Veneto region; another cheap grocery store bargain (1.5 Euros), then enjoyed some Limonetto Luigina, which is the lemon liqueur from Liguria. Limonetto is apparently the same thing as Limoncello, but the name varies with the region in which it’s produced.
Our visit to the local winery, on the last day of our stay at the farmhouse, turned out to be one of the highlights of our trip — but that’s a story for another day
(Photos courtesy of Michael Jennings)
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Broadbent ‘angry’ over how he’s portrayed in ‘Billionaire’s Vinegar’
You’ll recall that last week, in an entry entitled Hook, line and sinker: the ‘Thomas Jefferson’ bottles, we wrote about the newly released book “The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the World’s Most Expensive Bottle of Wine”.
Well now, some of the folks who are made to look quite silly in the book are beginning to fire back — through intermediaries, anyway. Check out the Decanter.com story headlined New book on Jefferson bottles ‘riddled with inaccuracies’: Christies.
Keep in mind, Broadbent has served as a columnist for Decanter and headed the Christie’s auction house’s wine department, so … everything here is intertwined in a rather complex way.
Here’s an excerpt from the Decanter story:
‘Billionaire’s Vinegar’, a book about the collection of contentious Jefferson bottles, has left Decanter columnist Michael Broadbent MW angry about alleged inaccuracies and mischaracterisation of his relationship with wine dealer Hardy Rodenstock. ….While Broadbent could not comment directly, Christie’s spokesperson Toby Usnik told decanter.com, ‘Mr Broadbent has read the book and noted that while significantly researched, it is riddled with inaccuracies and misrepresentations, most glaring of which is the author’s mischaracterisation of Mr Broadbent’s relationship with Mr Rodenstock. Mr Broadbent’s relationship with Mr Rodenstock has always been professional, transparent and appropriate.’
The Decanter story also notes that, “Neither Broadbent nor Christie’s has contacted Wallace or his US publisher, Crown, or specified which facts are in dispute.” And the web story quotes the book’s author, Benjamin Wallance, as saying, “If Mr Broadbent or Christie’s is now claiming that there are inaccuracies in the book, they should cite them specifically.”
As a print journalist , I’ve been on the receiving end of these denials by public figures who proclaim stories written about them are false, distortion and lies — but can’t or won’t point to a single specific sentence in the story that is inaccurate. The Broadbent camp has had plenty of time now to study the book. which Broadbent himself acknowledged is “significantly researched,” according to a Christie’s spokesperson. So if it is “riddled with inaccuracies and misrepresentations,” as proclaimed by Broadbent/Christie’s, it’s time to be specific.
Stay tuned. THIS is gonna get interesting.
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A Memorial Day weekend wine-tastings list to, well, remember
Courtesy of the Dayton-based wine listserv that does all of the heavy lifting, we present to you THE quintessential wine tastings and events list, available for the small price of a click on your mouse button on “continue reading.” Can’t beat that. Enjoy your weekend, and cheers!
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, May 23, 2008 4-8 pm Mumm’s M Cuvee Soos Creek Red Chateau Branda Chateau Le Bosco Chateau Fleur Cardinale
Saturday, May 24, 2008 1-6 pm Joseph Drouhin Chassagne Montrachet Toad Hollow Rods Pride Pinot Elderton Command Shiraz Chateau Baron Pichon Longeville
RSVP 222-2892 for all Dinners and Luncheons
Saturday, May 31, 2008 Copper River Salmon Luncheon $67.50 Tuna Nicoise Salad, Duo of Dungeness Crab Cakes with Avocado and Mango, Cedar Planked Salmon with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Summer Vegetables, Lemon and Plum Bread Pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream
Arrow Far Hills - Kettering Saturday, May 24, 2008 11-4 pm 2007 Hugues Beaulieu Picpoul de Pinet 2006 Robert Mondavi napa Valley Fume Blanc 2007 Luli Chardonnay 2006 R Wines Strong Arms Shiraz 2006 Colina Las Liebres Bonarda 2006 K Vintners “The Boy” 2005 Pezat Bordeaux
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood Friday, May 23, 2008 5-8 pm Shoofly Buzz Cut ’07 White Wine J. Lynne Russian River Reserve ’06 Chardonnay Ramsay North Coast ’05 Pinot Noir Estampa Gold ‘04 Chateau Pontensac ’05 Medoc Luis Canas ’96 Gran Reserva Rioja Brown Bag
Saturday, May 24, 2008 1-6 pm Paso Creek ’06 Paso Robles Zinfandel Seghesio ‘06 Sonoma County Zinfandel Davis Family Vineyard ’06 Russian River Valley Zinfandel Earthquake ’05 Lodi Zinfandel Ravenswood ’05 Teldeschi Zinfandel Renwood ’04 Jack Rabbit Flat Zinfandel Rosenblum ’04 Annette’s Reserve Zinfandel Bonus Bottle
DLM Washington Square Thursday, May 22, 2008 5-8 pm 2007 Domaine Lafond Tavel Rose 2006 Las Brisas 2006 Donnafugata Sedera 2005 Chateau Saint Georges Saint Emillon Grand Cru 2006 John Duval Entity Encore Wine
Saturday, May 24, 2008 12-5 pm 2007 Sonoma Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz 2004 La Corte Solyss 2005 Melville Syrah 2005 Orin Swift Cellars Papillon Encore Wine
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, May 23, 2008 Elderton Unoaked Chardonnay 2007 Terraza Reserve Malbec 2005 Callabriga RSV Dao 2003 Kenneth Crawford Syrah 2004 Mystery wine
Saturday, May 24, 2008 12-5 pm J Lynne Russian river Chardonnay 2006 Moulin d’Issan Bordeaux 2005 Terrasas Afincado 2004 Majella The Malleea Shiraz/Cab Coonwarra 2001 Diamond Creek Red Rock Terrace 2002
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday - Thursday 11:30 - 7 pm, Friday 11:30 - 8 pm Saturday 11:30 - 7 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Tasting from Friday, May 23 -Thursday, May 29, 2008 Alfredo Roca 2006 Pinot Noir Lang & Reed 2006 Cabernet Franc Desert Wind 2004 Ruah
Beer: Two Brothers Prairie Path Golden Ale Saturday Food: Turkey Samiches
Saturday, 10 minute chair massages 12:30-3:30.
Wednesday, June 11, 2006 (drop-in) 5-7 pm Adelsheim Vineyards Tasting with Michael Adelsheim. ”CH” Chardonnay (Stainless steel), Auxerrois, TF (Tocai Friulino), Pinot Noir, Elizabeth’s Reserve Pinot Noir, Deglace (Pinot Noir Dessert Wine)
Arrow Centerville 937-433-6778 615 Lyons Rd Centerville Friday, May 23, 2008 5-7 pm Beer Tasting North Coast Brewing Co. Acme Pale Ale North Coast Brewing Co. Red Seal Ale North Coast Brewing Co. Old Rasputin Imperial Stout New Holland Brewing Co. Dragon’s Milk Lagunitas Lucky #13
Saturday, May 24, 2008 11 am-5 pm Wine Tasting 2004 Burgans Albarino 2005 Domaine de la Feuillarde Saint-Veran 2006 Le G de Chateau Guiraud Bordeaux Blanc 2006 Altos de la Hoya Jumilla 2005 Chateau La Bardonne Red Bordeaux 2006 Paulo Scavino Rosso
Rue Dumaine www.ruedumainerestaurant.com Tuesday, May 27, 2008 5-7 pm LOUIS CHAVY Mercurey, 2005 CRISTOM Pinot Noir Willamette Valley Mt. Jefferson Cuvee, 2006 MT. DIFFICULTY Pinot Noir Roaring Meg Central Otago, 2006
The Wine Gallery and Cafe, Corner of 3rd and Wayne Wednesday, May 28, 2008 5:30-8:30 pm ‘07 Hagafen Riesling, Napa CA ‘04 Midnight Cellars Full Moon Red, Paso Robles CA ‘05 Midnight Cellars Full Moon Red, Paso Robles CA ‘03 Vina Robles Zinfandel, Paso Robles CA ‘05 Lyeth Meritage, Sonoma CA
Thursday May 29th 5:30 - 8:30pm German Beer Tasting
Market Wine Imports, Second Street Public Market Saturday, May 24, 2008 8AM to 1PM. Value wine tasting!
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 937-320-9548 Wine Wednesdays 5pm to 8pm in the bar. Wednesday, May 28, 2008 SOLOROSA Rosé, Napa Valley, 2007 SOLEX Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2006 CAMBRIA Pinot Noir, Santa Maria Valley Julia’s Vineyard, 2005 RENWOOD Zinfandel, Amador County Old Vine, 2005
A Taste of Wine 90 S. Main St Miamisburg, OH 937.247-1120 This week’s wines: Sonoma Vineyard Chardonnay Sonoma Vineyard Sauvignon Blanc Sonoma Vineyard Merlot Rodney Strong Estate Vineyards Knotty Vines Rodney Strong Sonoma County Cabernet Sauvignon
May 22 - Sipping Sonoma Vineyards Tasting MAY 24 - Dancin’ in the street with THE FRIES May 31 - Play, Wine, Dine
Trader Joe’s in Kettering. Tastings Thursday 6:00-8:00 and Sunday 4:00-7:00. Schloss Biebrich (NV) Sekt, Germany. Chalk Creek Sauvignon Blanc (2006) AVA North Coast, California. Chalk Creek Merlot (2005) AVA Mendocino County, California. Epicuro Aglianico (2006) IGT Beneventano, Italy.
McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant Wednesday, May 28, 2008 6:30 pm $60 includes gratuity Rocco delle Macie Winery Dinner with winery World Ambassador, Vito Candelo Five courses, Five wines Reservations Limited Cork-n-Vine Wine Cellar in Troy, Ohio May 23, 2008 at 5 pm - May 30, 2008 White Flight New Age White(blend) Terra D’ Oro Rose Raymond Reserve Sauv. Blanc Chateau St. Jean Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay
Red Flight Wynns Red Stripe(Cab,Shiraz,Merlot) Belle Vallee Pinot Noir Penfolds 2006 Shiraz-Cab Estancia Red Meritage
Wednesday May 21, 2008 Valley Vineyards Wine Tasting with special guest Joe Schechter, 3rd generation 5:30 - 9:00 pm
Miami Valley Wine & Spirits 943 West Main St., Tipp City, Oh. 45371 Friday May 23, 2008 5-9pm 8 3oz pours of beer and broasted wings and potatoes.
Bella Vino, Wine Merchant & Bar, Springboro, OH 45066 Thursday, May 1, 2008 5:30-7:30pm. 2006 Elk Cove Riesling - Willamette Valley 2007 Elk Cove Pinot Gris - Willamette Valley 2006 Elk Cove Pinot Noir Rose Willamette Valley 2006 Elk Cove Pinot Noir - Willamette Valley 2006 Elk Cove Five Mountain Pinot Noir - Willamette Valley 2006 Elk Cove ‘Ultima’ Riesling
Little Sonoma, 6078 West Chester Road, West Chester, OH 45069.513-942-9463. Located two blocks north of Union Centre Blvd. at the corner of Muhlhauser and West Chester Roads www.LittleSonomaWines.com Friday, May 23, 2008 5-8 pm Quality Wines in the $15-20 Price Range Saturday, May 24, 2008 3-6 pm - Wine Based Beverages
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NOW I’ve heard it all: Wine can improve liver health
I am not making this up: Wine can protect your liver against disease.
So sayeth researchers at the University of California-San Diego Medical Center.
What next? Curing blindness? Baldness? Bursitis?
Behold, the power of fermented juice of the grape …. in moderation, of course.
Cheers!
Mark Fisher
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The ‘ultimate’ Father’s Day gift — for those who like their drinks a bit stronger
The folks at Chivas Regal — yes, they make that luxury Scotch whisky —- have unveiled what they call “the ultimate Father’s Day gift, a once-in-a-lifetime opportunity to experience the essence of Scotland,” according to an email news release I received here at the Dayton Daily News.
For a mere $117,650 — yes, you read that right — “Father and gift-giver will experience the most luxurious accommodations including: a stay at an invitation-only, private mansion with a full-service staff and world-class hospitality; privately prepared meals from one of Scotland’s most acclaimed chefs; a round of golf at the world-famous St. Andrew’s Links; first class air and helicopter transport; a bespoke kilt and a family crest consultation; as well as a butler to oversee that the pair receives impeccable service throughout their trip.”
But wait — there’s more.
“The gift recipient and guest will be treated to an intimate dinner with The Duke of Argyll at his home, Inveraray Castle … . Guests will also have the ability to experience the art of blending with unrivaled intimacy by learning to create a customized blended Scotch whisky … Guests will have access to Chivas Brothers’ stocks, the largest and oldest in the world, including five days of specialized whisky tastings where guests will have the opportunity to sample never-before tasted whiskies.”
But wait — there’s more.
“The finale of the trip of a lifetime will occur upon the guests return home, with the receipt of their custom kilts and two bottles of the prestigious Chivas Regal 25-Year-Old Scotch Whisky, one of which will be presented in a special case designed by Viscount David Linley, son of Princess Margaret … .”
Buying the trip, the Chivas folks say, would be “a special way to say thanks to the man who has left a lasting impression” on your life.
And you won’t have to pick out a necktie.
Okay, I can’t imagine anyone I know personally purchasing this trip — we here in “flyover country” of Ohio are simple, humble folk who tend to our flocks and to our stills — but if you DO need contact information, click on “continue reading.” And I’ll be with you — in spirit. Or in this case, spirits.
Mark Fisher
P.S. Don’t forget Tony Coturri will be at The Wine Gallery and Cafe tonight (5-21-08) from 5:30-8:30 p.m. for a special tasting of his wines. The Wine Gallery is at East Third Street and Wayne Avenue just east of downtown Dayton.
According to the news release, The Ultimate Father’s Day Trip can be reserved by contacting Travelcorp International at 225-231-4735 until June 16th, 2008. For additional information, please call 1-888-332-2907. The Ultimate Father’s Day Trip can be redeemed on August 3rd - 8th or August 31-September 5th due to very limited availability. Cost is $117,650, which includes airfare, transportation, lodging, all meals, a round of golf, blending class, tour of Inveraray Castle, two bespoke kilts, a custom family crest, two bottles of Chivas Regal 25-Year-Old and a luxury case.
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Hook, line and sinker: the ‘Thomas Jefferson’ bottles
I had to chuckle when I opened my email this morning to find an ad accompanying Decanter.com’s daily news alert for a huge auction at Acker Merrall & Condit of fine and rare wines from the cellar of Dr. Bipin Desai, to be held tomorrow.
That’s because just a few short hours earlier, I finished reading and put down on my nightstand The Billionaire’s Vinegar: The Mystery of the World’s Most Expensive Bottle of Wine (Crown, $24.95), and Dr. Desai’s name pops up frequently in the book.
Desai’s integrity isn’t questioned in the book, but holy moly, Hardy Rodenstock’s sure is. Rodenstock is the German wine collector whose mammoth tastings were the stuff of legend, and his supposed find of a couple dozen bottles engraved with Thomas Jefferson’s initials rocked the wine world, especially after one of the bottles — a 1787 Ch. Lafite — was purchased in 1985 at auction for $156,000 by the son of Malcolm Forbes.
Author and journalist Benjamin Wallace digs deep into that sale and into the cast of characters (and egos) surrounding it. He meticulously and thoroughly investigates the charges that Rodenstock sold fraudulent bottles, including the 1787 Lafite, and lays out in a narrative, page-turner writing style, an astonishing tale of intrigue, greed, pride and ego.
That the tale sullies the reputations of the biggest names in the wine business — Michael Broadbent (especially), Marvin Shanken, Robert Parker and many more who should have known better — makes the tale even more fascinating. Suffice to say you’ll never look at an old, rare bottle — or at some of the world’s most influential wine critics — the same way again.
Thank goodness that the extensive list of wines to be auctioned tomorrow doesn’t include any 18th century “finds.”
In a Q&A written interview that accompanies the Crown Publishing press materials for the book, Wallace delivers a straightforward, one-word answer to the question: Do YOU think the Thomas Jefferson bottles are fake?
“Undoubtedly,” Wallace replies.
Is this book worth your time and effort to find and read?
Undoubtedly.
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The Fleurs de Fete, retrospective
The 17th annual Fleurs de Fete is now history … wha’d you think?
My Dayton Daily News reporting colleague, Laura Dempsey, was working Sunday and wrote this story about the event. And other DDN colleagues, Patty and Ray Marcano, along with photographer Samantha Grier, took some great “You’ve been spotted” photos.
The weather turned out great — a bit breezy, but no rain. It was not gridlock under the tent, only slightly cramped at times. There were plenty of impressive wines, and I, for one, didn’t leave hungry. For a list of restaurants and others who provided food, as well as what they served, click on “continue reading” below … I particularly liked the offerings from the Oakwood Club, Thai 9, Coco’s and Pacchia).
Lynda Weide, VP at the Wellness Connection that benefits from the festival, said Monday morning that she won’t have solid attendance figures until the end of the week, but she suspects attendance may have slipped a bit from last year’s 1,700. The weather forecast and cool temps may have contributed to that. Organizers also reconfigured how the restaurants were set up to ease the traffic flow , and it appeared they succeeded.
And Mif Frank’s memorial toast to Doug Simon was heartfelt and very well done.
Your thoughts? Best food? Best wines? Best part of the event? Worst part? What would you change if you were in charge?
Again, for food items served at the Fleurs de Fete, click on continue reading, and if we left anyone out or made a mistake describing any of the dishes, post a comment and let everyone know …
Mark Fisher
Dewey’s: Edgar Allen Poe pizza
La Piazza — Flattened meatball sandwich with tomato sauce and basil pesto
Winan’s — chocolates and coffee
Thai 9 — Chicken salad and Shrimp with lemon grass
5th Street Deli: Olives, salsa, cheese cubes, Berry Summer Cake
Pacchia — Sliced cucumbers topped with poached salmon, faux dill caviar and sugar-cured salmon; crabcakes with faux caviar and Balsamic
Coco’s — House-smoked salmon with carmelized fennel atop garlic cheese crostini
Giavanni’s — Fusili pasta
Jay’s — Salmon atop Spinach salad with strawberries
Christopher’s — Sliced beef tenderloin on sliced baguette with horseradish sauce
Madison’s Bistro — Smoked salmon wontons and Organic Herb Liver Pate with tomato-apple chutney
The Chimney’s Inn — Chicken sausage jambalaya
A Taste of Wine — sliced bread with olive oil and spices
Savona — Berry Tiramisu
Chappy’s — Pulled Pork sliders
Benham’s — Spinach dip, Bruschetta, artichoke dip
Oakwood Club — Honey-mustard glazed salmon; mussels in tomato sauce, garlic and shallots
Chef’s Touch Catering — Mixed fruits, cheeses, veggies with dip
Carver’s — Beef Tenderloin in port-shallot sauce
The Dock — Chilled Atlantic Salmon served over mixed greens topped with bourbon vinaigrette; crab dip
Wellington Grille — Island Crab Cakes
Jerardi’s Little Store — Roast beef with horseradish sauce; pasta with white truffle sauce
Dorothy Lane Market — Breads, Killer Brownies
Central Perc — coffee
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Robert Mondavi, 1913-2008
Robert Mondavi died this morning at the age of 94, according to this story from the Napa Register.
Mondavi’s name was virtually synonymous with California wine, and his contributions to the development of winemaking in this country are incalculable.
Click here for the San Francisco Chronicle’s coverage and here for Wine Spectator’s coverage of Mr. Modavi’s passing.
Do you have any personal memories of Mondavi or his wines? Please post a comment and share them with Uncorked readers.
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Stamping out wine snobbery and elitism, one festival at a time
Most of you Dayton-area readers of Uncorked already know all of traditional reasons that the Fleurs de Fete has evolved over 17 years into this region’s premier wine-and-food event: the 400-plus wines, the food samples from 25 area restaurants, the great outdoor venue at Carillon Historical Park, the music, the highly entertaining live and silent auctions, and the, um … unparalleled people-watching.
Now, here’s another reason why this event continues to have such a good vibe: all of the attendees are on equal (if sometimes soggy) footing. No special VIP tastings, tents or events. Organizers of the Fleurs de Fete — unlike their colleagues who oversee the Cincinnati International Wine Festival — have resisted the temptation to make a few quick & easy bucks by setting up events that would allow a privileged few to separate themselves from the unwashed. (The Cincy winefest earlier this year offered a “Special Tasting Room” where festival-goers could, as the festival’s web site put it, “Enjoy High End wines for one hour prior to the Grand Tastings” for an “additional charge of $35 for 7 tastes.” As if the grand tastings didn’t offer enough wines?)
Why is that important? Because wine already has a reputation for snobbery and elitism that discourages people from learning about and enjoying this natural, potentially healthful mealtime beverage. The VIP events for high-rollers only just cement that reputation for snobbery and elitism. Wine doesn’t need it, and festival organizers shouldn’t promote it, even if it costs them some short-term gain.
I brought this up with Lynda Weide, vice president of corporate and community wellness for the Wellness Connection of the Dayton Region, the organization that promotes early detection and treatment of heart disease and cancer and which benefits from the Fleurs de Fete. Weide acknowledged that the idea of holding such separate VIP events “has been brought up” — but rejected.
“The philosophy of this event since its inception was to make it approachable to all people who wanted to learn about and explore wine,” Weide said. “We didn’t want it to be an event of privilege or make any part of it exclusive.”
I’ll drink to that.
Now it could be argued, I suppose, that the $60 price tag keeps out plenty of folks who want to learn more about wine, and while that may be true, just compare the Fleurs de Fete to other cities’ charitable wine events — many of which start at $100 before all the VIP stuff — and for all of the incredible food and great wines available at the Fleurs, our event comes off looking like a bargain. And Weide points out that the wine distributors and restaurants at the Fleurs de Fete are donating everything consumed at the event.
Oh, and one other reason to attend this year: at 1:30 p.m., half an hour into the event, there will be a tribute toast to Doug Simon.
The Fleurs de Fete will be held this Sunday, May 18, from 1 p.m. to 4 p.m. at Carillon. Advance tickets, which cost $60, are available at local wine shops through the end of the day Saturday. Or buy ‘em at the door for $65.
See you there.
Mark Fisher
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Best wine-tasting list in ‘murrica
Tastings? Check. Dinners? Check. Other special wine events? You betcha. Just click on the “continue reading” link, and silently thank the Dayton-based wine listserv that compiles the list you’re about to read.
Sunday, May 18, 2008 1-4 pm, $60 in advance, $65 at the gate. Fleurs de Fete Wine and Gourmet Food Festival featuring more than 300 wines and food offerings from over 25 Dayton restaurants. Rain or Shine. Purchase tickets at many local wine stores or online at www.wellness-connection.org
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, May 16, 2008 4-8 pm 2006 Max Richter Piesporter Michelsberg Riesling 2005 Care - Syrah, Tempranillo, and Garnacha Blend 2005 Chateau Pey Latour 2005 Chateau La Garde 2004 Hess Collection Cabernet
Saturday, May 17, 2008 1-6 pm 2006 Fieldstone Sauvignon Blanc 2005 Tamarack Cellars Merlot 2005 Chateau Paveil De Luze 2004 Don Melchor Cabernet
RSVP 222-2892 for all Dinners and Luncheons
Saturday, May 31, 2008 Copper River Salmon Luncheon $67.50 Tuna Nicoise Salad, Duo of Dungeness Crab Cakes with Avocado and Mango, Cedar Planked Salmon with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Summer Vegetables, Lemon and Plum Bread Pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream
Arrow Far Hills - Kettering Saturday, May 17, 2008 11-4 pm 2007 Toad Hollow Rose 2006 Toad Hollow Chardonnay 2006 Owen Roe Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2005 Di Arie Southern Exposure Zinfandel 2004 Estampa Gold Assemblage 2005 Steltzner Stags Leap Cabernet Sauvignon
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood Friday, May 16, 2008 5-8 pm Monchof ’06 Riesling Liopart Brut Rose Faiveley ’04 Bourgogne La Ca Nova ’03 Barbaresco Alios ’05 Syrah Crios ’06 Cabernet Brown Bag
Saturday, May 17, 2008 1-6 pm Torbreck ’06 Semillon Newton ’06 Unfiltered Chardonnay Carmody McKnight ’02 Merlot St. Cosme ‘03 St. Joseph Ben Marco ’06 Malbec X Winery ’05 Cabernet Bonus Bottle
DLM Washington Square Thursday, May 8, 2008 5-8 pm 2006 Schloss Gobelsberger Gruner Veltliner Steinsetz 2007 Triennes Rose 2006 Alberto Longo Primitivo 2004 Cedro do Noval Douro 2005 Chateau d’Escourac Medoc Encore Wine
Saturday, May 17, 2008 12-5 pm 2007 Las Brisas 2005 Vinum Cellars White Elephant 2007 Mandolin Pinot Noir 2004 La Corte Solyss 2005 Penley Estate Phoenix Cabernet Sauvignon 2006 John Duval Entity Encore Wine
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, May 16, 2008 Posenato Soave Classico 2006 Posenato Valpolicella 2005 First Drop Dos Por Ciento 2% 2005 R & B Cellars Napa Cabernet 2001 Mystery wine
Saturday, May 17, 2008 12-5 pm Brander Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Patz and Hall Chardonnay 2005 Alexander Valley Cyrus 2004 Dominio de Atauta Ribera del Duero 2004 Finca Dofi Priorat 1999
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday - Thursday 11:30 - 7 pm, Friday 11:30 - 8 pm Saturday 11:30 - 7 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Tasting from Friday, May 16 -Thursday, May 15, 2008 J.K.Carriere 2007 Glass - (Rose of Pinot Noir) Turkey Flat 2007 Rose Gruet 2006 Chardonnay Shooting Star Zinfandel 2006 Onix Priorat J.K. Carriere 2006 Provocateur Pinot Noir Turkey Flat 2005 Shiraz
Beer: A new beer Saturday Food: Smoked Trout Spread
Saturday, 10 minute chair massages 12:30-3:30.
Wednesday, June 11, 2006 (drop-in) 5-7 pm Adelsheim Vineyards Tasting with Michael Adelsheim. Details to follow.
Arrow Centerville 937-433-6778 615 Lyons Rd Centerville Friday, May 16, 2008 5-7 pm Beer Tasting Christian Moerlein Lager Christian Moerlein Barbarossa Double Dark Lager Christian Moerlein Emancipator Dopplebock Hofbrau Maibock Sinebrychoff Porter
Saturday, May 17, 2008 11 am-5 pm Wine Tasting 2006 Del Rio Rose Jolee Rock Point White 2006 Schild Estate Shiraz 2005 Posenato Valpolicella Classico 2004 Callabriga Douro Red
Tuesday May 20, 2008 5-8 pm Bouchaine Vineyards Tasting Winemaker and General Manager Michael Richmond and Greg Gauthier, Vice President of Sales and Marketing from Bouchaine Vineyards, Napa Valley and Carneros California will be available to discuss an array of their wines.
Rue Dumaine www.ruedumainerestaurant.com Tuesday, May 20, 2008 5-7 pm DOMAINE DE NOIRÉ Rosé Cabernet Franc Chinon, 2006 ARTAZURI Rosé Garnacha Navarra, 2007 TURKEY FLAT Rosé Grenache Barossa Valley, 2007
The Wine Gallery and Cafe, Corner of 3rd and Wayne Wednesday, May 21, 2008 5:30-8:30 pm Special Tasting with Tony Cotturi featuring 5 organic wines: sauvignon blanc, cab sauvignon, syrah and zinfandel.
Market Wine Imports, Second Street Public Market Saturday, May 17, 2008 8AM to 1PM. Value wine tasting!
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar 937-320-9548 Wine Wednesdays 5pm to 8pm in the bar. Wednesday, May 21, 2008
A Taste of Wine 90 S. Main St Miamisburg, OH 937.247-1120 This week’s wines:
Thursday May 8, 2008 Norton Tasting & Tapas May 16 A Taste of Miamisburg 5 - 9pm
Trader Joe’s in Kettering. Tastings Thursday 6:00-8:00 and Sunday 4:00-7:00. Segura Viudas Brut Reserva (NV) DO Cava, Spain. Bear’s Lair Chardonnay (2005) California. Charles Shaw White Zinfandel (2007) California. Three Knights Pinot Noir (2006) AVA Russian River Valley, California. Chateau Coucy (2001) AOC Montagne Saint-Emilion, France.
Winds Cafe, Yellow Springs May 16, 2008 Southern French Wine Tasting 7:00 pm $40./person. Call 937-767-9441 for reservations.
Tuesday, May 20, 2008 Domaine Serene Dinner & Wine Tasting 6:30 pm
McCormick & Schmick’s Seafood Restaurant Wednesday, May 28, 2008 6:30 pm $60 includes gratuity Rocco delle Macie Winery Dinner with winery World Ambassador, Vito Candelo Five courses, Five wines Reservations Limited
Cork-n-Vine Wine Cellar in Troy, Ohio May 16, 2008 at 5 pm - May 23, 2008 Red Flight Greg Norman Pinot Noir Zolo Malbec Clos Du Bois Zinfandel Joseph Carr Cabernet
White Flight Covey Run Pinot Grigio Meridian Chardonnay Chateau Souverain Chardonnay Michael David Symphony(Blend)
Friday May 16 Special Guest Brew Master Angelo Fields from Anheuser Busch 6-9 pm at Dagwoods
Miami Valley Wine & Spirits 943 West Main St., Tipp City, Oh. 45371 Friday May 16, 2008 5-9pm 8 3oz pours of beer and broasted wings and potatoes.
Bella Vino Wine Merchant & Bar, Springboro, OH 45066 Thursday, May 1, 2008 5:30-7:30pm. Saturday May 17, from 2:00-4:00 Lucien Albrecht Pinot Blanc Joseph Drouhin White Burgundy Joseph Drouhin LaForet Bourgogne Domaine Chateau de Rothschild Bordeaux Rouge Chateau Fleur Haut Gaussens Bordeaux supérieur
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What’s YOUR favorite wine-sipping song?
The news out of Great Britain that playing a certain type of music can enhance the way wine tastes rather begs the question: What’s your favorite wine-drinking song?
No, it wouldn’t be “Red, Red Wine” by UB40 (among others). Too obvious.
I think that for both content and song title, I’d have to go with Supper’s Ready by Genesis (I know I’m datin’ myself here, but me and my buds were quite the prog-rock fans back in the day … )
I’m tellin’ ya, in the right context, that song could make Ripple taste like Lafite.
You? What’s your favorite wine-sippin’ song?
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THIS is what happens when two wine geeks marry
Scott Clark faced a daunting task last weekend: Come up with the perfect wedding toast for his good friends and fellow wine geeks Bob and Cathy, and deliver it in front of several dozen more wine enthusiasts who were enjoying a wine-rich reception.
Who ya gonna call? Robert Parker, of course. Because after all, a fine marriage is like a fine wine, right? So it stands to figure that the same adjectives used to describe a fine wine can apply to each of the members of the union, and to their marriage, right?
So to capture the essence of Bob for the crowd, Scott turned to Parker’s description of the 100-point 1990 Chateau Montrose:
… remarkably rich, with a distinctive nose of sweet, jammy fruit, liquefied minerals, new saddle leather, and grilled steak. In the mouth, the enormous concentration, extract, high glycerin, and sweet tannin slide across the palate with considerable ease. It is a huge, corpulent, awesomely endowed wine that is relatively approachable, as it has not yet begun to shut down and lose its baby fat. Because of (his) enormous sweetness, dense concentration, high extract, and very low acidity, (he) can be appreciated today, yet this is a legend for the future.
And for Cathy? Scott turned to Parker’s description of the 1999 Lafite Rothschild:
A quintessential offering …both elegant and intensely flavored and almost diaphanous in its layers that unfold with no heaviness. An opaque dark ruby/purple color is accompanied by a complex bouquet of lead pencil, graphite, cedar, creme de cassis, toast and vanilla. Medium bodied with extravagant layers of richness yet little weight and a finish that is all sweetness, ripeness, and harmony….
But how to describe the resulting union of these two friends and wine lovers? For that, Scott buckled down, poring over Parker reviews, borrowing bits of prose from the descriptions of many, many Bordeaux from, of course, the finest pedigree and vintages. And here, my friends, is a slightly pared-down version of how Scott — with a powerful assist from Mr. Parker — described Cathy and Bob’s future together:
… possesses a spectacular, young but awesome smorgasbord of aromas … There are gorgeous aromas of creosote, asphalt, camphor, cigar smoke, roasted espresso, new saddle leather, and graphite; all intermixed with black currants, acacia, liquid minerals, crushed blackberries, creme de cassis, vanilla, hickory smoke, scorched earth, and grilled nuts. … powerful, dense, and chewy, with magnificent extract, excellent delineation, and outstanding purity. … This brilliant achievement satisfies both the hedonistic and intellectual senses. … already showing great complexity and accessibility … extremely difficult to resist. The brilliant symmetry of the wine, extraordinary purity, and seamlessness are the hallmarks of a modern-day legend.
Anticipated maturity: Unknown Aging potential: Unlimited
It brought down the house.
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U.S. hypocrisy on full display in threat to block Brunello imports
The U.S. has threatened to block imports of all Brunello di Montalcino starting June 9 unless each shipment is accompanied by laboratory analysis certifying that the wine is “pure Sangiovese,” according to Decanter.com.
The U.S. is Brunello’s biggest market, importing 25% of total Brunello production, so the threat in a letter from the U.S. Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau has Brunello producers scrambling to arrange for lab tests to keep the Brunello pipeline flowing.
The Decanter story notes that, “Since Brunello must by law be 100% Sangiovese, adding other grapes would be a violation of a strict labelling convention between the U.S. and the EU that stipulates that what is on the label must guarantee what is in the bottle.”
I’m all for taking steps to ensure wine purity, but this smacks of selective enforcement, if not downright hypocrisy. Sounds like some government bureaucrat got frustrated that his office’s initial letters and threats were ignored, so he chose to rattle the saber a bit.
My question: How strictly are government authorities enforcing all of the other wine “purity” rules right here at home — the regulations regarding the mixing of wines from different appellations, and even from different vintages?
My thoughts go back to a conversation I had with David Phillips, co-owner of Michael David, the Lodi, California winery that I wrote about yesterday. With a twinkle in his eye, Phillips told me how, during harvest, the semi trucks would line up along the main highway between Lodi and Napa, be loaded to the brim with bargain-priced Lodi grapes, and head 90 miles to the west. Napa wineries are allowed to blend a percentage of grapes from outside the region — I believe it’s 15 percent — and still, perfectly legally, claim the “Napa” appellation. And Lodi was more than happy to oblige.
Now, I wonder how many “bargain” Napa producers pay razor-sharp attention to ensure they don’t exceed that allowable proportion of outside grapes? And I wonder how robustly our government monitors and enforces those rules?
What do you suppose might happen if some government agency demanded a freeze on sales and a laboratory analysis of every bottle that carried the Napa and Sonoma appellation on its label to ensure “purity?” How long do you think THAT bureaucrat would keep his job?
Consumers will be watching the Italian prosecutor’s probe into Brunello and in the end, I suspect the marketplace will decide this brouhaha more than courts and bureaucrats will.
Until then, the U.S. would do well to avoid engaging in saber-rattling and selective enforcement.
Mark Fisher
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Where Lust and Rapture meet: the Michael David Winery
David Phillips polishes off a slice of pie at his family’s market and restaurant at the Michael David Winery
LODI, Calif. — The Michael David Winery takes their winemaking seriously. The names of their wines — not so much.
The winery — one of the trailblazers in the quest for higher quality in California’s next up-and-coming wine region of Lodi — produces a broad array of wines with whimsical names such as Seven Deadly Zins (which naturally led to its companion wine, Seven Heavenly Chards), along with the Earthquake line of “ground-shaking reds” and luxury bottlings named “Lust” (zinfandel) and “Rapture” (cabernet sauvignon).
It all comes from the twisted and talented minds of David and Michael Phillips (why yes, they DID go to Catholic grade school, how did you guess?) and their families, the fifth- and sixth-generation farmers here in the fertile flatlands of Lodi, 90 miles east of San Francosco.
The brothers’ ancestors started planting wine grapes in the late 1800s to diversify the family farm, and by Prohibition, were loading railroad boxcars with grapes headed to Ohio and New Jersey for purely, um, sacramental reasons. Folks back east ate a lot of grapes — and churches held many communions — back then.
Through the 1970s and early ’80s, the Phillips family did what virtually all of their neighbors in Lodi did: grew lots and lots of grapes and sold them to the local cooperative, which in turn sold to giant producers such as E&J Gallo and Sutter Home. In 1984, though, the family, with Mike Phillips as winemaker, started bottling and selling a portion of their crop at $3.99 or $4.99 a bottle.
Growth and accolades followed, as the Michael David Winery helped lead a quality resurgence in Lodi. Winemakers and vineyard managers in the region discovered they could take advantage of the region’s climate — a break in the mountains to the west funnels in ocean air that cools the vines nearly every afternoon — and its winemaking heritage: the region boasts some of California’s oldest grapevines, including acres of zin vines that are over a century old. (The Phillips brothers themselves own some 135-year-old Cinsault vines whose juice goes into the “Incognito Red, a Rhone-style blend.)
The Phillips and their neighbors started pruning their vines more aggressively, limiting irrigation to stress the vines, reducing crop loads and taking other steps to enhance quality. The resulting wines boast lush fruit, very mild tannins, wonderful concentration and, more often than not, very attractive quality-to-price ratios.
Today, the Michael David winery is a bustling place. It produces 250,000 cases of wine per year under its own label and farms 500 acres of grapevines, while also growing other fruits as well as vegetables and herbs. It also operates a fruit and vegetable market and restaurant, with a menu that takes full advantage of the fresh produce. My wife, in fact, ate what she described as “the best piece of pie I’ve ever had” — an apricot pie still warm from the oven — at the Michael David restaurant. And let’s just say my wife does not praise pie lightly.
Thus proving that at Michael David, rapture isn’t limited to just the wines.
(Photos by Mark Fisher)
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One state resolves wine direct-shipping issue — could Ohio be next?
One prominent Midwestern state has found a way to resolve its wine direct-shipping issues, and the resolution appears as if it will please wine consumers who are on the receiving end of some of those direct-from-the-winery shipments, according to this Wines & Vines story entitled “Illinois Opens to Direct Shipping.”
The new Illinois law also allows small wine producers to bypass wine wholesalers and distribute their wines directly to retailers — something that to my understanding, would NOT be legal in Ohio under current laws (correct me if I’m wrong). What impact would it have in Ohio if we were to embrace such a law?
Illinois lawmakers didn’t embrace free-market openness entirely: The Illinois law also appears to prohibit out-of-state wine retailers from shipping directly to Illinois consumers through the Internet.
The Ohio General Assembly is contemplating changes in the Buckeye state’s wine laws. Anybody know the latest on these efforts? And what do you think of the Illinois law?
Mark Fisher
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A wine-drenched weekend in May
Your best and brightest wine tastings and events listing, courtesy of a Dayton-based wine listserv, is your with but a click of your mouse …. Can life get any better?
Sunday, May 18, 2008 1-4 pm, $60 in advance, $65 at the gate. Fleurs de Fete Wine and Gourmet Food Festival featuring more than 300 wines and food offerings from over 25 Dayton restaurants. Rain or Shine. Purchase tickets at many local wine stores or online at www.wellness-connection.org
As you attend your favorite wine tasting this weekend, raise your glass and toast Cathy Beard and Bob Roalef on the occasion of their marriage this Saturday!
Jay’s Kitchen Door Friday, May 9, 2008 4-8 pm NV Tattinger La Francaise 2006 Rex Hill Pinot Noir 2005 Frescobaldi Nipozzano 2001 Vini Fimmato IL Poggio 2003 Murphy Good Wildcard
Saturday, May 10, 2008 1-6 pm No tasting, Kitchen Door closed
RSVP 222-2892 for all Dinners and Luncheons
Monday, May 12, 2008 Wine Dinner with Alessandro Angelini $55 Antipasti, Sweet Breads with Cèpes, Pappardelle with Duck Breast in Truffle Cream Sauce and Baked Stuffed Peaches
Saturday, May 31, 2008 Copper River Salmon Luncheon $67.50 Tuna Nicoise Salad, Duo of Dungeness Crab Cakes with Avocado and Mango, Cedar Planked Salmon with Yukon Gold Mashed Potatoes and Summer Vegetables, Lemon and Plum Bread Pudding with Mascarpone Ice Cream
Arrow Far Hills - Kettering Saturday, May 10, 2008 11-4 pm 2003 Marques de Gelida Reserva 2007 Artazuri Rose 2006 Goats Do Roam White 2006 Goats Do Roam Red 2004 Clos Pegase Napa Cabernet Sauvignon 2005 Austins Pinot Noir Geelong 2005 D’ Arie Southern Exposure Zinfandel
Dorothy Lane Market (DLM) Oakwood Friday, May 9, 2008 5-8 pm Veleta ’07 Tempranillo Rose L’Ecole No 41 Chardonnay Rosemont ’04 GSM Chateau St. Georges ’03 St. Georges-St Emilion Mondavi ’04 Oakville Cabernet Cenit ‘05 Brown Bag
Saturday, May 10, 2008 1-6 pm K Winery Kungfu Girl ’07 Riesling Summers ’06 Chardonnay Palacios Remondo ’04 Rioja Scagliola Frem ’04 Barbera d’ Asti Buller Calliope ‘03 Shiraz Simi Alexander Valley Cabernet Bonus Bottle
DLM Washington Square Thursday, May 8, 2008 5-8 pm 2006 D’Arenberg the Hermit Crab 2005 Louis Chavy Mercurey 2006 Montirius Cotes du Rhone 2003 Domaine de Barribou Minervois 2004 Masciarelli Montepulciano d’Abruzzo
Saturday, May 10, 2008 12-5 pm 2007 Mommy’s Time Out Pinot Grigio 2007 Kung Fu Riesling 2007 Donna Fugata Anthilia 2006 Siduri Hirsch Vineyard Pinot Noir 2005 Elyse Morisoli Zinfandel 2004 Selene Chesler Encore Wine
Dorothy Lane Springboro Friday, May 9, 2008 3-8 pm Kung Fu Girl Riesling 2007 Hook & Ladder The Tillerman 2005 La Montesa Rioja 2004 L’Ecole #41 Perigee 2005 Mystery wine
Saturday, May 10, 2008 12-5 pm Crooker Starr Sauvignon Blanc 2006 Cenit Crianza 2003 Cenit Crianza 2004 Cenit Crianza 2005 Krupp Brothers 2004
Cuvee Wine Bar and Cellar, 4457 State Route 725 Bellbrook Tuesday - Thursday 11:30 - 7 pm, Friday 11:30 - 8 pm Saturday 11:30 - 7 pm www.cuveewinebar.net Tasting from Friday, May 9 -Thursday, May 15, 2008 Domaine Massamier La Mignarde 2007 Cuvee des Oliviers Rose Artazuri 2007 Rosado Sineann 2007 Pinot Gris Lioco 2006 Indica 2006 Onix Priorat Green Lion 2005 Cabernet
Beer: Pyramid Hefe Weizen Saturday Food: Asian Smoked Salmon & Noodle Salad OR Mediterranean Style Roast Beef Sandwich
Saturday, 10 minute chair massages 12:30-3:30.
May 14, 2008 5-7pm (drop-in) Big Aussie Tasting with George Galey, Importer Selaks Sauvignon Blanc Turkey Flat Rose Turkey Flat Grenache Lake Breeze Cabernet Mount Difficulty Pinot Noir Turkey Flat Butcher’s Block Turkey Flat Cabernet Sauvignon Selaks Ice Wine
Wednesday, June 11, 2006 (drop-in) 5-7 pm Adelsheim Vineyards Tasting with Michael Adelsheim. Details to follow.
Arrow Centerville 937-433-6778 615 Lyons Rd Centerville Friday, May 9, 2008 5-7 pm Beer Tasting Pyramid Curve Ball Two Brothers Dog Day Thirsty Dog Raspberry Ale Breckenridge Summer Bright
Tuesday May 20, 2008 5-8 pm Bouchaine Vineyards Tasting Winemaker and General Manager Michael Richmond and Greg Gauthier, Vice President of Sales and Marketing from Bouchaine Vineyards, Napa Valley and Carneros California will be available to discuss an array of their wines.
Saturday, May 10, 2008 11 am-5 pm Wine Tasting Moet & Chandon Nectar Imperial Rose 2006 George DuBouef Beaujolais-Villages 2006 Esser California Chardonnay 2005 Turnbull Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Quat
