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Wednesday, January 4, 2012
Dayton Dining Best of 2011: Diners enjoy a bumper crop of new restaurants, and more
Here’s a sneak peek at a story that is scheduled to run this Friday, Jan. 6, in the Dayton Daily News ActiveDayton/Life section.
Let’s take a look back at the Best of 2011, and a sneak peek ahead to what’s on tap for 2012, for Miami Valley’s dining scene:
Most promising debut
From the bumper crop of new restaurants opening in 2011 — some of which I haven’t gotten to yet — here were three that shone:
— Olive - full name “Olive, an urban dive” — established itself quickly with a strong focus on locally sourced foods served in the rather cozy confines of the former Wympee in downtown Dayton (you’ll recognize the former coffee shop and burger joint from the outside — but not from the inside). The kitchen shows a deft touch with fish, and a fall ratatouille was exceptional. Make a reservation, and avoid sitting near the front door on cold winter nights. (Note: Olive owner Kimberly Collett notes that she recently installed a thick drapery inside the front door and insulated the door with weather stripping to protect diners from the cold.)
— Roost Modern Italian is still in its infancy, but this intimate Oregon Historic District spot that formerly housed Blue Moon and Las Americas is off to a fine — and very busy — start. Early favorites include a Pork Chop Milanese Style crusted in ciabatta bread crumbs, and Crusted Sea Scallops served over toasted almond and asparagus ravioli with cremini mushrooms. Mushroom lovers should not miss the wild mushroom salad.
— Tik’s Thai Grille in Bellbrook, the second restaurant of Siriya “Tik” Sripol, who also operates Tik’s Thai Express in Fairborn. The full-service restaurant is beautifully decorated and welcoming, and an initial visit suggests great promise: The dishes are visually appealing, the flavors fresh and vibrant.
Best new concept
Fusian. This new restaurant on Brown Street, near the University of Dayton, is the brainchild of Oakwood natives Stephan Harman and brothers Josh and Zach Weprin, who debuted the concept in Cincinnati before bringing it to Dayton. Fusian brings a Chipotle-style serving line to sushi, allowing diners to customize their sushi roll as it’s prepared before their eyes. There are also options for those who don’t like raw fish. In a word: Brilliant.
New restaurants I’m looking forward to trying (or making a second visit)
Taste restaurant in Trotwood, the recently reopened Neil’s Heritage House in Kettering, Roost, Tik’s Thai Grille, Jimmie’s Ladder 11 and House of Thai that just opened in Miamisburg.
Pleasant surprises on the plate
The Chorizo Bites appetizer at Amici’s in Kettering, Pad Kee Mow with seafood noodle dish at IYara Thai Restaurant in Huber Heights, Panang Curry with seafood at Thai9 in Dayton, and Lomo Shrimp, the signature dish of William Eatery in Yellow Springs.
Regrets
I (and we) really should get out to more special wine dinners, such as the ones The Winds hosted in October (steamed walleye, seared salmon and grilled duck breast with Kermit Lynch-imported French wines, oh my) or the Jay’s Restaurant 35th Anniversary Wine Luncheon back in February (Seared Rare Tuna on Potato Cake with Foie Gras and Port Drizzle, heavens to betsy) or the Jay’s wine luncheon in the fall with guest chef Mike Tenore (lobster lasagna and a giant pork shank with Antinori and other Italian wines, mercy). These special wine dinners allow chefs to spread their wings. And for such multi-course meals, with wine pairings included, these special wine dinners can also be great values for what diners get on the plate and in the glass.
For comfort food
Try a Turkey Hot Shot or the signature Cabbage Rolls at Angie’s Firehouse Tavern in Dayton’s Belmont neighborhood. These are dishes that tell winter to take a hike.
Farewells
Artisans Cafe, Las Americas, Gyros, Bar-B-Q Hut, Swisher’s, Wah-Fu, among others.
Dueling swords - and sides
Within a week’s time in late fall, both Meadowlark and C’est Tout served up excellent renditions of swordfish. At Meadowlark, the fish was topped with chopped black olives, capers and grated orange zest - a judicious amount that perfectly complemented the swordfish. At C’est Tout, the swordfish arrived resting in a creamy mustard sauce that made each bite a guilty pleasure.
As good as the dueling swords were at each restaurant, what impressed the most was the attention to detail given to side dishes . At Meadowlark, my dining companion’s side dish was a truly revelatory blend of butternut squash and kale, two locally grown and often underappreciated fall crops that were elevated here. The faint bitterness of the kale balanced the sweetness of the squash, and the result made for an inspired pairing.
At C’est Tout, it was a seemingly humble side dish of rice with peas and mushrooms that shone. The mushrooms were rich and buttery, the peas plump and perfectly cooked, and the rice played its supporting role by keeping the dish light and appealing.
Side dishes matter, and both Meadowlark and C’est Tout showed they can do them right — while also excelling at swordsmanship.
Looking ahead to 2012: a few questions
— After the courtships and the rumors are complete, which restaurants will set up shop in the Austin Landing development?
— What will the new Coco’s be like after the move to Warren Street?
— How swiftly will the Peerless Mill renovations be made, and the restaurant reopen?
— Can Miami Valley diners support all of the new barbecue restaurants and Asian restaurants that have opened?
— And can Dayton continue to defy the odds and avoid high-profile restaurant closings that nearly every other metropolitan area has endured?
Here’s hoping we can — and will.
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